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Modica
is one of the most picturesque town in the province and in all Sicily.
It is located in the Southern side of the Iblean mountains and is
divided in two original areas: Modica Alta (Upper Modica), whose
buildings almost clamber up on the rocks of the mountains, and Modica
Bassa (Lower Modica), down in the valley, where once flew the rivers
Ianni Mauro and Pozzo dei Pruni, which were covered up at the beginning
of the century because of the frequent floods, and where the Corso
Umberto, main road and historic centre of the town, stands.
The
town has also extended on other areas: Modica Sorda, Monserrato,
Idria, etc., corresponding to the "new" Modica.
Modica
has a baroque architectural look and was entirely rebuilt after
the terrible 1693 earthquake that razed it down. Few
remnants are what remain of the former town: The gothic portal of
the church "del Carmine"; ruins of the 16th century church
of "S. Maria del Gesù (St. Mary of Jesus); the 15th
century "Cappella del Sacramento" (Chapel of the Sacrament)
inside the church of "S. Maria di Betlemme" (St. Mary
of Bethlehem); the recently recovered "rocky" church of
San Nicolò Inferiore, in a late Byzantine style and dating
back to the 12th century. It preserves inside decorations going
from 8th through 16th centuries.
What
makes Modica so unique and charming is first of all, the baroque
look, largely showing up in the historic centre and town planning,
secondly, the presence of picturesque alleys surrounded by even
older shops, houses and buildings, on the whole "old"
Modica.
Here
is following a short description of the main baroque sites: The
monumental Cathedral of San Giorgio, one of the most important and
stately religious monuments in all Sicily.
Its ancient origin is partly doubtful. Following what asserted by
the historian Carrafa, the original structure of the church dates
back to the earliest Middle ages, and was then destroyed by the
Arabians in 845; it was rebuilt and then named San Giorgio (formerly
Santa Croce) by Ruggero the "Norman"in the beginning of
the 12th century.
Highly damaged by the 1613 earthquake, it was rebuilt on request
of the Count Giovanni Alfonso Henriquez-Cabrera.
The earthquake in 1693, more terrible, largely razed it, and the
reconstruction, more sumptuous and luxurios than ever before, was
committed to the celebrated architect Rosario Gagliardi, from Siracusa,
already author of the San Giorgio in Ragusa. The
church, re-opened in 1738, has a nave and double aisles and is rich
of artistic ornaments, precious stuccoes and paintings, such as
the 1513 "events of the Gospel and of San Giorgio's life",
by Girolamo Aliprandi, well-known as the Raphael of Sicily. The
1885 "Meridiana pavimentale" (Floor sundial) and the "Treasure"
of the church are also remarkable. This latter includes, among other
pieces, the "Holy Ark", a silvered piece of art containing
the relic of San Giorgio.
Then, contributing to render the church so impressive, there is
the celebrated flight of 250 steps, which crossing the underlying
roads climb up to and introduce the magnificent front elevation
of the church. The stairway was accomplished in 1818 by the Jesuit
Francesco di Mauro.
The
church "del Carmine", by Corrado Rizzone's Square, was
once a convent of Carmelitani friars. Both the church and convent
date back to the 16th century, when the religious order first came
to Sicily.
The church suffered the damages of the 1693 earthquake and maintains
of the original structure, a, mentioned, splendid portal and a sumptuous
open-work "Rosone". The inside, with a nave, has altars
on both sides, one of which holds the "Annunciation",
a precious sculptural group, from the 16th century, by Antonio Gagini.
Finally, there is the main altar, notably wood sculptured in relief
stuccoes.
The
church of S. Maria di Betlemme, located in Modica Bassa, along the
main "Corso", and by Prince of Piedmont's Square, is a
15th century highly damaged construction which keeps intact the
only right nave's portal. Inside it has three naves and a notable
decorated truss roof. At the back of the right aisle, there is a
chapel of the Sacrament, into a squared levelled structure, covered
with an octagonal based cupola ornamented with Arabesque pendentives
in gothic style and enriched by Arabian, Norman and Catalan elements.
It keeps the Cabrera's noble graves.
The left aisle harbours a beautiful terracotta Christmas Crib, realized
by Father Benedetto Papale in 1882.
Still
on the Corso it is placed the church of San Pietro (St. Peter),
Patron of Modica Bassa, dating from the 14th century, but rebuilt
after the famous earthquake. It is introduced by an elegant flight
of steps flanked by statues of the twelve apostles on its sides.
Inside the basilica, with a nave and two aisles, has fourteen pilasters
boring Corinthian capitals.
The nave is decorated with scenes of the Old Testament, as the right
aisle holds two important groups: "The Madonna of Trapani",
likely by Giovanni Pisano, and the polichrome "San Pietro e
il paralitico" (St. Peter and the paralytic", by Paolo
Civiletti (1893).
The
18th century convent of "Mercedari", is today an elegant
building harbouring two museums: the civic museum, which collects
archaeological tokens from Palaeolithic and old Christian Ages and
18th and 19th century paintings; the Iblean museum of popular arts
and traditions, holding a rich heritage of agricultural tools, craft's
old furniture and shops, all entirely recomposed and representing
a real document of the old activities and life.
The
church of "S. Maria delle Grazie" is annexed to the convent
and its construction was due to the recovery, in 1615, of a slate
tablet boring the image of Mary with the Child. This tablet is still
kept into the main altar of the church.
The
upper part of the town, Modica Alta, shows, as well, numerous churches
and old "Palazzi", like that of Tomasi-Rossi, with a wide
stone worked portal and, at the top floor, beautiful balconies with
forged iron bars supported by corbels with masks.
The
typical windings of Modica Alta lead to the high side,
where in the end, after meeting several churches, the cathedral
of San Giovanni shows up, at the top of a beautiful flight of steps.
Its remarkable belfry is 449 m in height. The façade is on
two orders enriched by two couples of columns.
The
Palazzo De Leva, in Modica Bassa, is one of the most impressive
and is today the place of a public office and of frequent art exhibitions.
Its name is especially famous for the amazing 18th portal, in Arabian
and Norman style (here known as Chiaramonte's style).
The
Palazzo Polara stands right beside the Cathedral of San Giorgio.
It is a splendid construction in baroque style introduced by an
elegant flight of steps. Its front elevation dominates Modica Bassa
and its overhanging hills. It hosts a well-known picture-gallery.
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